Someone once told us that they thought Mongolia wasn’t a country for the faint-hearted. Maybe that’s true. Certainly, the long winters can be unpredictable. Months of sub-zero temperatures and savage weather present untold danger to man and animal alike. Yet there is a beauty in this feral land. Winter is cold, but the days are often crisp with brightness as the sky, an uninterrupted canopy of blue, gives the sun limitless space in which to shine, and taking full advantage, the sun coats everything in iridescent light.
We’d always thought winter tourism could flourish in Mongolia. So, when we heard a recent mention of the ‘Mongol 100’ our ears pricked up. We had no idea what it was but, after a short investigation, we found that a British-based adventure tour company had begun an intriguing winter challenge across the frozen surface of Lake Khovsgol.
Located in Northern Mongolia close to the Siberian border and with a depth of 262 metres, Khovsgol is the largest freshwater lake in Mongolia. From December to April it is frozen with ice, reputedly as thick as one metre in places. People used to drive their vehicles across the lake in an endeavour to avoid longer routes around it, but that practice has been banned.
Stretching just over one hundred miles from tip to toe, Khovsgol is impressive. We once travelled north to visit a friend. It was November and the lake, not yet completely frozen, groaned deeply as tectonic-like plates of ice shifted and creaked.
The Mongol 100’s challenge is to traverse the length of Lake Khovsgol by foot, ice-skates or bicycle over a certain number of days in early spring. In freezing temperatures with the Siberian wind biting its teeth into your skin, it’s a brutal and gruelling slog to the finish line.
Despite the pain and the discomfort endured, people say they wouldn’t have missed it for the world. Fears were crushed, hardships overcome, and with the challenge completed, the accompanying sense of triumph was precious. They have an accolade to cherish. But they did not achieve it alone. Each participant was rooting for the other, as they did their best to reach the finish. In retelling the adventure there is joy and satisfaction. We did it! But curiously, alongside that there’s a rumbling dissatisfaction, a longing, that hankers for more.
I wonder, did God create us for more?
Does that rumbling disquiet propel us out of our armchairs and push us forward? Perhaps we won’t skate the length of Lake Khovsgol, or even scale a mountain, but without that sense of dissatisfaction in our hearts will we keep pursuing God? Will we keep seeking to know His Son, Jesus Christ, more deeply?
Ignoring the conditions and distractions around us, let’s focus our eyes forward. We are pursuing our goal, a life of growing faith in Christ. Our muscles are taut, we are stretched to the limit of our capacity. We are following. Sometimes we slow down, sometimes we meander off the track. We need to utilise God’s provision of grace. We need our friends’ support. We need them to spur us on to keep on growing. We need to change, to build up stamina that strengthens our trust and faith in God, so that we too can finish the challenge and complete our course.
Sometimes, after the initial introduction, there comes that serendipitous moment when we say, ‘What, you too?’ Whether it’s a shared interest, or a philosophy of life, we realise we have a connection with the person standing before us; a connection holds within the seeds of friendship.
The Bible tells us that a friend can be closer than a relative. Perhaps because, to a degree, they are chosen and relatives are not. A friend is dependable and faithful, loving us whether life is happy or not. Empathising with us in pain and celebrating our joys, they know us to the bottom of our hearts and still love us. Words of truth come from their lips: complimentary words that cause our hearts to swell and corrective words that crash against the wall of our fortified selves.
Only one friend never, no, never leaves us and never lets us down. Jesus! He is the ultimate friend. The friend who went to hell for me, who endured more pain than I can possibly comprehend, and yet still loves me totally and unreservedly. The one with whom I can have a complete and true emotional connection that frees me from the fear of rejection and fits me to become the person God desires me to be; the friend He created me to be.
Naturally, fat animals survive the winter better than thin. In the warmer months herders will try to feed their animals up and ensure that they have fodder for the winter, but sometimes the summer grass is meagre and the animals are not strong enough for winter.
This is a wild place of untamed ocean and largely uninhabited coastline, of secluded beaches and hidden inlets. Standing on the cliff’s edge looking out to sea, it’s easy to imagine smugglers dragging ashore cases of tea and brandy, rum and tobacco.
Lighthouses have a long history, the oldest dating from the 3rd century BC. In Britain, the lighthouse was initially a fire lit on the ground. Later that fire was placed on a platform before engineers began the challenging job of designing a tower, like the trunk of an oak constructed from granite, to house the rotating light. Each lighthouse, or series of lighthouses, had a slightly different pattern of signals that allowed the mariner to identify their location.
longer needed by the seafarer. The keepers have all gone, their homes derelict or turned into fashionable holiday residences. And yet from our Cornish window, the light of Trevose Head, some twenty miles down the coast, can still be seen. Its light is still a beacon solid and stable, offering comfort and continuity, strength and stability to today’s sailors. No matter what the weather, its light is unchanging.
California is warm, like the Mediterranean. Palm trees, silhouetted against the pastel sky, swirl in the breeze. Our friend tells us California possesses 1,100 miles of magnificent coastline. This is a beautiful state of beaches and turquoise lagoons, mountains and arid desert, fertile valleys and giant trees. It is also a state of equally giant success. Of innovation and entrepreneurs, of entertainers and economic growth that’s touched our world.
Perhaps this is the essence of salvation − God rescues us. But that’s not all. He doesn’t just leave us dangling. He rescues us that we might live our lives in response to His redeeming hold. God draws us into a love relationship with Him which, when lived out in simple, sincere obedience to His word, instructs us in healthy disciplines that develop a life of faith. Distinctive new boundaries take root; boundaries that support and preserve our faith in God and hold us in our permanent home with Him.
We grinned, recalling the number of times we’ve seen travelling Mongolians produce a bag containing such meat. Rubbing it between their fingers, they’d crumbled the beef onto their food, adding a tasty supplement to meatless soups and bland vegetables. Few families, particularly those in the cities, dry meat but everyone relishes the flavour.
“Which must make life easier for them,” I added.
Flowers begin to fade and petals fall. Leaves, tinged with gold, spin silently earthwards, while the short season of rain saturates the woods, leaving them filled with a humid sweetness that draws fungi to life. Red and yellow minute umbrellas, tiny white puff balls and brown sombreros cover the decaying floor. Blueberry and lingonberry, sea buckthorn and cranberry shine on bowed branches, beckoning pickers to gather their bounty.
Before that new growth comes, however, we must endure the demanding season of winter. It is strange to think of winter when life is so full and the trees are still bright. But the time when all appears dried up or just plain dead will come. I wonder whether that knowledge intensifies the beauty of autumn?
The winter here is barren, long and harsh. The brilliant sun and clear skies cover a snow-covered land devoid of growth. Yet contrary to appearances, this landscape is not dead. Come spring the land will turn green, wildlife will awaken, flowers bloom and the trees brim with leaves.
Whatever the celebration, Mongolians will sing. In fact, people say if you can’t sing then you’re not Mongolian. At concerts, amongst the chatter, ringing of phones and eating of ice-creams, the audience will happily add their bold voices to the performance. Sometimes a famous singer will invite a child to join them; most children eagerly leap onto the stage, grab the microphone and begin singing with an unconstrained gusto that delights the audience no end.
Such songs are cathartic. They lift the Mongolians, cheer their hearts and take them beyond the mundane, beyond themselves to see the beauty that surrounds them.
In the ordinary, I praise, thank and adore Him, marvelling at His power, love and grace; aware that as I direct my praise to Him, something happens in me. I sense His presence, and my small understanding begins to grasp a little of His greatness. Humbled, I realise that neither I, nor my work, nor the troubles of this world, are the centre of my universe. He is. And not only does my simple praise re-orientate me, but it finds its home with Him, the God of heaven and earth.
There’s an exit from the smog and traffic jams of Ulaanbaatar as people build second, or new holiday, homes. Edging to the river’s bank, fences eat up this once unfenced land. Claiming their rights, metal pens creep into the woods, diverting path and track, evicting squirrel and chipmunk in their wake. Electric saws and vintage radios sing out their music, smothering the lark and swallow’s song.
The reasons are many and varied. But the building work, for this year at least, has come to a halt. Bricks, ready for the builder’s hand, stand untouched. Wood, stacked and cut for beams and joists, is forsaken. Some begin again and go on to complete their new home, while others never return.
Perhaps next year, they’ll resume building. Perhaps the plan will be more solid and they’ll come equipped with all they need to move beyond the disarrayed building site and the messiness of work left unfinished. And perhaps, they will complete, with joy, what they purposed.